I have just launched a new website for my surfing stuff, photos, videos etc. check it out if you have a minute.
I have just launched a new website for my surfing stuff, photos, videos etc. check it out if you have a minute.
Its been a good start to the new year, Melanie and I spent January in Indo with some good friends, surfing, hanging out, partying (Mel’s birthday was off the hook!) and seeing some amazing places and people. We didn’t get as much surf as we would have liked and I broke my toe halfway through the trip. But it was amazing anyway, and probably the most needed trip I have ever had. Home now and feeling positive about the year ahead. Bring it on!
Here’s a wee video of our trip.
i can give a list here of my first music ‘things’. First, as far I as can remember, for xmas, i had a ‘bugs bunny’ vinyl. Then, i remember vaguely having a Jason Donovan vinyl. This is weird to me, considering that my father had an excellent taste in music. Anyway, when I was in P6/7(ish) i remember getting my first tape for xmas: The Offspring – ‘Smash’. Next one was a RANCID tape, the one where they had the genius Matt Freeman (the best bassist in the world) singing with Tim Armstrong. Still today, and I’m pretty old now, I love everything that Tim and Matt have been involved with.
I’ve been so lucky to have seen a lot of my favourite bands playing live. Last week i finally got to see RANCID play in Belfast. I was with some of my best friends in the world, and it was just as good as that ‘Jason Donovan’ album that i loved so much!
Managed to squeeze this funny wee video out of one surf, whilst dying with the flu. With Jamie Russell, filmed by Melanie Curran.
been so busy lately that I havent had a chance to do much else other than working, editing, surfing and most importantly, hang out with Melanie without thinking about the ‘Children of the Norn’ project.
I just had a sick little trip away down the coast with some of my best friends, waves were not epic, actually nothing was really epic, but the craic was 90. Cant really write anything proper about it so im just gonna throw some shit down to try to keep a personal memory of it. Good times (ish). Might even add some photos later………
She’s clearing from the west boys. Careful when you open that boot cos those beers are gonna fall out. Cant believe those cans of stella smashed on the floor and im shotgunning them at 10.30am. I fuckin hate this left. Dean, you’ll be sweet, magners? Wow its actually nice and warm, cant wait til the morning, its gonna be pumping! Magners? Im gonna have the best nights sleep in this tent. indian kebab(ish). Is that your bingo placemat? That photo didnt come out properly, kinda looks like you wrote ‘TK GAY’. Hurry up and chop that fuckin log would ye! That guys logs are pure shit! Its not the fact yer cloddin chips round the shop, its the fact yer clodding chips and they hit my WOMAN! Ge us a bottle o that raspberry. Why dont you just sleep in the van, theres loads of room? Jesus christ mate, I know you just swam outta your tent but are you honestly drinking tennents at 9 in the morning? Lets check that right hander again. That shit you just took in the field had viens. Get your fat ass outta the van and push! Hold on til I ration this cup-a-soup sachet. You know the way the kettle whistles when the water boils?, what if….? Look, its pumping (ish). Thats the last wave i’m giving that german dude. Lets get outta here. What county would you be from if………………
‘He who has Science and has Art
Religion too has he;
Who has not Science, has not Art
Let him religious be!’
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
This is Pete Stewart doing what he does, I like to try a few airs when im surfing, grabs spins and stuff, although, i must emphasize that i TRY, i land hardly anything! This guy blows my mind, the stuff he does is so dialed and fast and to be honest, im really not sure exactly what he is doing half the time, regardless, its fucking sick!
He was nice enough to take me wake surfing last week one day when the waves were shit (no, not wakeboarding, not wake skating, wakeSURFING) weird right?!
Anyway, it was one of the funnest afternoons ive had in a long time, its pretty fucking difficult though (for me anyway).
Im just trying to throw a wee edit together of some footage that Mel shot of us wake surfing. In the meantime, check out why Pete is the best wakeboarder in the country and one of the best in the world!
So, you know this ‘Children of the Norn’ thing we have been working on? Well, it has been flat on the north coast forever, or actually, ever since we released that damn trailer for the film. We do have some footage and are still working on it, but desperately need some swell.
I was lucky enough to be invited to the Sea Sessions Expression Session the other week, to compete against some of Europe’s most amazing progressive surfers, I didnt do great but I was pretty happy with how I surfed in one heat (even though I landed an air after the hooter, DUH!). Anyway, we hooked up with some good mates and even managed to squeeze a couple of freesurfs in around the comp. Here’s a wee vid of 2 pretty rubbish surfs……. As always, filmed by Melanie Curran, music by FIDLAR.
I have been interested in art since I can remember, I will not say that I understand art or am in any way educated in the subject. However, I have always loved to draw and paint and create little things, most of which may well be rubbish, but they have been mine and I reckon art is a personal thing…..I enjoy it, I like it, it makes me happy, who wins?…….me.
Anyway, I picked up a book in my favourite shop in the world, ‘Real Groovy’ Record Store in Auckland about 5 years ago which changed my life. It was an Ed Templeton book called ‘The Golden Age of Neglect’. The book looked more like a magazine and was basically full of photos of ‘youth culture’. I have never related to anything so much before i picked up this book. Im not saying that this book was an exact image of my youth, but it was real for me and I stood in that shop for at least an hour looking through the pages in awe, kinda remembering and kinda dreaming that this was a diary of my youth.
This photo is one of Ed’s shots that I really love, not sure why, I just do…….
So we finally got a teaser put together for Children of the Norn. We had this little idea when we got back from our travels in January once we saw how many people are surfing well around here now. It took us a couple of months to get a new camera, and it has been pretty slow getting footage together when we are not working and there is a bit of swell. But its finally coming together. We are aiming to have the short film (maybe 30-40minutes) finished by the end of summer, if we get some waves! The track on the teaser is from a sick little band from Lisburn called ‘The Couth’, check them out…. http://www.reverbnation.com/thecouth
Yesterday, my brother Alastair paddled from the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland to Islay, Scotland. He was the first (and i’m sure the last) person to ever try or accomplish this incredible feat……
Well what can I say about yesterday?…… Literally any time Al steps foot in the ocean he impresses me, but yesterday, I witnessed the single most impressive display of fitness, determination, endurance, stubbornness, and skill I have ever seen from any human being. On a beautiful sunny day with a small swell running, I had imagined Al to be up for a very long (possibly a little boring) paddle across very calm water. I couldnt have been more wrong. Yes the sun was shining, but for the most part of that epic 9+hour paddle, the water was anything but calm. Between the causeway coast and the Scottish island of Islay, enormous bodies of water are moving against each other, add in the effect of tidal movements and a stiff wind, and what you get is a pretty hectic stretch of water, to say the least! Hats off to Al and everyone who helped out. Im am very proud to have a superhero like Al as a brother!!!
2 recent surfs with 2 mates at home…
We have been scoring some real good waves and been hanging out with good mates that we haven’t seen in ages. Melanie has got her campervan up and running again now, so I am looking forward to a lot of little surf trips up and down the coast!!! This video, and the thought of making one back home gets me excited about the months ahead!
Shepard Fairey, one of my favourite artists and the genius behind OBEY Clothing, paints Asbury Park, New Jersey.
We just had our first trip to Lombok. Wow, what an amazing place! Lombok lies to the east of Bali and to the west of Sumbawa. It is a mainly Muslim country and therefore a little different to Bali. We had an awesome trip along with our friend John, and met some of the most beautiful, friendly and welcoming people ever. The more I travel around Indonesia, the more I start to see how Bali is losing its ‘paradise tropical island’ image which it has always been famous for.
Right now, an international airport is under construction near the tiny village of Kuta, South Lombok. I imagine that it wont be long before the whole area is taken over by the same huge hotel complexes which cover the more beautiful parts of Bali. The pristine beaches will always be there (hopefully) but right now they are still empty and free to explore. South Lombok was what I expected to find the first time I travelled to Bali. Get there if you can, quick!
Oh, and the waves are pretty sick!
Our latest video, filmed in spring time in Australia just before we left the country. Now chilling in Indo and scoring some good waves before we head home to cold dark days and thick wet wettys…
This is one of Stephen Scullion’s shots from back home in Ireland a couple of years ago, on a sick little 6’2″ from Rosy. Just realised that I haven’t surfed at home since 2009. Getting excited about it now, I know i’m gonna freeze my balls off but I cant wait to see my family and friends and score some of my favourite little beachys and reefs!
After spending a month in indo surfing some seriously shallow and sharp reefs without any serious injuries, I was frothing about getting back to Aus to pull into some nice easy sand bottom barrels. On Monday a new swell lit up the wreck in Byron. Melanie, our friend Alex and I were all over it. It was low tide and super sucky. I took off on a little shoulder high drainer, pulled into the barrell but it outran me, as usual I was sucked over the falls, not a big deal, but somehow whilst going over the falls, my board smashed me in my mouth, really hard. I thought ‘shit, i might be bleeding a bit’. When I popped up there were 3 guys looking at me jaws dropped. I looked down and saw that my chest was covered in blood and there was blood pouring out of my mouth. I managed to wave Melanie out of the water, who took one horrified look at me and said ‘dont look at it’ and ‘hospital now’. We abandoned Alex (sorry mate) and drove straight to hospital. Still in my wetty and covered in blood I received a few worried looks from people we passed en route to A+E.
The doctors and nurses were amazing, and after an hour or two they had managed to stitch my mouth back together. 14 stitches around my bottom lip to reattach it properly, and 4 more in the other corner of my mouth which was split as well. Out of the water for a while and eating anything that I can suck up a straw.
Its whaling season again, and unfortunately the cetaceans are under threat again. Sea Shepherd are a non-profit organisation fighting to end whaling forever. Join the fight or at least check out their website and raise awareness…
Just got back from indo, and as usual, it was awesome. Scored some super fun waves, met heaps of old and new friends, had some wild nights, got a few new scars and survived a few sketchy boat and car journeys. Here are a couple of shots from the trip. More photos and a little video to come………. Thanks to Hayley Fisher for the ‘wallet drop’ and ‘mini-boost’ photos.
Sick little vid of Rosy Skatepark in Derry!!!
This is Melanie’s latest movie. I think its the best yet, such good filming angles with sick backdrops and foregrounds! Well done Mel, you rock!!!
Mia is a Pharmacist/Photographer/Crazy Bitch from Germany who is currently living in Byron Bay. She has been taking some really cool pics and I reckon her future in photography looks bright. There are 2 of her shots below, we have better ones but this is just a sample for now.
Life in Byron Bay right now is epic! It is now autumn, and although the days are a little shorter, the sun is still shining, the waves still pumping and I can still surf for 4 hours in boardies and a t-shirt. The bustling town is still……… bustling and we can watch live bands every night of the week if we want. After 3 very quiet months (lack of waves and atmosphere) up in Noosa, we couldnt be in a better or more beautiful place than Byron Bay right now. Heavy beachy barrels and one of the best sand bottom points I have ever seen. Welcome to PARADISE!
“Actually I don’t remember being born, it must have happened during one of my black outs.”
beautiful, sunny, drunken, hippie, beachy, musical, sharky, fun BYRON BAY……
One of the great things about young people is that they do question, that they do care deeply about justice, and that they have open minds.
Zack de la Rocha
My friend Coady is a Cornish Pirate who just arrived in Australia, he came to stay for a few days of surfing, quarry jumping and general debauchery. Since it was his first time here I thought it would be best to steer him clear of the local weak beers and introduce him to Buckfast! Maddness ensued, you can see some clips from his genuinely piratey visit on my next vid coming soon…
This is Coady and Mel modelling a fine #1 bottle purchased in Byron Bay.
A short vid from a couple of weeks ago during a fun swell at noosa. Met Shirley at Lennox, what an epic lady! Thanks for the tune!